I just tried it again and I think I found the problem.

Take a look at the serial output ==> screenshot


And in the defuse readme is this standing:
A successful de_Fuse looks like this:

```
[pico] Changed state: WIIU_STATE_POWERED_OFF -> WIIU_STATE_NEEDS_DEFUSE
Starting... 1152
Results:
Winner! 0xfb80
01
02
03
04
05
08
09
0a
0b
0c
0d
0e
13
14
15
18
1b
1c
1d
1e
1f
25
88
89
8a
...
```

- If the initial lines are not 01, 02, 03, ..., this means the DEBUG GPIOs are not wired correctly.
- If the final line is 0x1E and the error code is 0x00, that is an invalid SD card. Invalid SD cards seem to hang boot0.
- If the final line is 0x25, and 1e and 1f are in the output, this means the SD card was valid, but not flashed correctly (or otherwise failed to read).
- If the final line is 0x25, and 1e and 1f are NOT in the output, this means that the EXI CLK wire is not connected correctly, or there is an issue with the EXI data wire.
- A brief purple flash means that the custom boot1 has loaded, and glitching was successful. If it stays solid purple, then it has loaded fw.img from the SD card.
- A brief purple flash followed by a blinking orange LED means that fw.img was not found on the SD card root, or the SD card failed to mount.
"If the final line is 0x25, and 1e and 1f are in the output, this means the SD card was valid, but not flashed correctly (or otherwise failed to read)."
I have seen this in the serial output.
So I guess my SD card is corrupt.

Make the Defuse SD Card again. Seems something is corrupt or missing. I suspect corruption as evident in the screenshot you shared. 

As you said I made the defuse card again putting the boot1.img on the card after that I removed the partition and made a 2GB (Fat) partition. Then I put the defuse files (wiiu folder, fw.img, otp.bin) on the card, started the serial connection and pressed the power button.

Again weird text characters. Unplugged it took my 1GB SD card and tried it with that but again weird characters.
Took the 2 GB SD card back and suddenly the text was normal but I still was not able to control the serial connection with my keyboard (yeah one press down and that's it), but all I did on the wii u was visible in the serial connection.

I went to "restore and backup" and selected "erase MLC" and the result is in the video.
I think I have to recheck my soldering work. It wasn't the result I expected.
Maybe that's the reason it's acting so weird now.

Defuse is starting correctly. The issue is with the NAND-AID. Check your soldering. The SD Card isn't being detected. Double check to make sure the NAND-AID is grounded properly. Just so you don't end up chasing a ghost, I recommend validating that the SD Card is working by checking it in a computer, especially if you have double checked your soldering and it all checks out.   

Quick question: Do you know the values of the resistors R27, R28, R29 and R30 on the mainboard of the Wii U?

Quote from: andlinux on Feb 11, 2026, 11:04 AMQuick question: Do you know the values of the resistors R27, R28, R29 and R30 on the mainboard of the Wii U?

Those resistors don't matter if you have a NAND-AID Installed. That being said the values are around 22ohms.

I use the resistors to measure thru them, to be sure my connections are good.

3V continuity is good
GND is also good

D2 = 33Ω
D1 = 33Ω
D0 = 33Ω
D3 = 33Ω
CMD = 33Ω

Then the next is CLK, but here I'm lost.
If I measure on the NAND-AID CLK pad (new pcb) that trace goes to the R26 trace that's been cut oriented next to the Hynic MLC memory but it also passes the DSB pad and the DSB pad is connected to GND with a blob of tin so I also have continuity on the GND. See added picture. Is that normal?

Those measurements are all good. If you measure on left and right side of NAND-AID at trace R26 is there continuity?

As for your question, yes this is normal. The DSB Pad shorts the eMMC CLK to GND. This disables the eMMC on the console, so for example if you wished to access the eMMC again you would have to clear the DSB solder to open the jumper.

If I measure on the sides where I had to cut the trace there's no continuity.


I just measured all again and I thought I had found it, a bad connection to the ground,
it was like if the tin was floating above the pad, so I fixed that.
But when I booted the Wii U the blue LED was flashing and minute took a long time to start,
afterwards when i was in minute I tried to erase the MLC but again error messages.

Before I checked the soldering I took out the SD (MLC) and put it in my computer, deleted the partiitions and made one big FAT partition.

This one is real difficult one.

Edit: Do you know where the trace goes from the one that is cut?

I did some measurements but can't find it.

The trace for R26 that you cut connects the eMMC to the Wii U. Cutting it disables the eMMC. The NAND-AID intercepts this signal by connecting to this trace, so right side (closest to eMMC) goes to the eMMC and is disabled using the DSB on the NAND-AID. The left side intercepts the signals and transfers them to the SD Card on the NAND-AID so that it can be used as the replacement eMMC.

Are you still getting the error about sdhc error interrupt? When you try to erase the MLC. If so you may want to double check the SD Card reader on the NAND-AID.

I had 3 consoles with this error and 2 of them I fixed. The issue on one of them was one of the 9 pins on the SD Card Reader wasn't soldered completely. It wasn't something I could see even under a microscope but when I checked it with a multi-meter it was obvious.

The other one I had held the soldering iron on the SD Card ground pads too long and melted the plastic inside. So the fix for that was to remove the SD Card slot and replace it. It wasn't until I removed it that I was able to see why it didn't function.

The third console I still have and for some reason it just doesn't work with a NAND-AID. I spent weeks trying to diagnose it on and off, but I never figured out why the NAND-AID wouldn't work. One of the things I did do to test the console was use REDNAND, which did work. So it led me to believe there was something specifically wrong with the NAND-AID. This particular console I had a mishap when removing the first NAND-AID I installed in it after I realized it was defective. During the removal I ripped the capacitors off the board at R26-R31. Now these capacitors aren't supposed to matter, so having them missing wasn't the problem. 

Yes, the errors are still there about the sdhc error when trying to erase the MLC. Tried it a few times.

I bought the NAND-AID that had the SD reader already preassembled, I thought it would be easier (less work) but I can see pads so I guess I can check those with a multimeter. Probably tomorrow.
If it's not a working NAND-AID I have to blame V10lator

I'll keep you updated.

Quote from: andlinux on Feb 15, 2026, 01:50 PMYes, the errors are still there about the sdhc error when trying to erase the MLC. Tried it a few times.

I bought the NAND-AID that had the SD reader already preassembled, I thought it would be easier (less work) but I can see pads so I guess I can check those with a multimeter. Probably tomorrow.
If it's not a working NAND-AID I have to blame V10lator

I'll keep you updated.

His version does allow for less work and easier installation. The design itself actually allows for testing after the SD Card Reader is installed and before installing the NAND-AID. Which the original version doesn't allow for. I want to clarify I am not suggesting the NAND-AID is at fault here. While its possible for it to be defective my gut tells me the console you have has the same issue (yet to be discovered) that my console has where the NAND-AID appears to be installed correctly but the SD Card cannot be formatted inside the minute menu.

When V10lator sold me the NAND-Aid he made a small mistake by the capacitor, he scratched some solder mask off but he fixed it by putting a blob of tin on it, so it was not something to worry about. He's a good man. Everybody makes mistakes, we are not perfect.

I just measured the continuity between the pads of the SD card reader and the pads on the PCB of the NAND-AID and I have continuity over all the connections. All the data connections have continuity and the GND also but the 3V3 was giving contact then not etc.

I was excited because I thought I found the problem...

So I checked it again under the microscope and it was a bad soldering at the 3V3 R10 component.
Soldered it again, used my tweezers to feel if it was holding it, tried to erase the MLC but again no luck. The same messages.

Maybe I can do some measuring when it's powered on but I have to be very careful not to short things.

I also tried another SD card, with no luck.

If you having the multi-meter on a ground point you shouldn't have to worry about shorting anything on the board or damaging it. Just make sure you do not bridge 2 points if they are small and your working with larger probes 

Just did some measuring:

Between pads on the mainboard and the NAND-aid pads:
GND and D2 = 3.3V
GND and D1 = 3.3V
GND and D0 = 3.1V
GND and D3 = 3.3V
GND and CMD = 3.29V
GND and CLK = 0.95V
GND and 3V3 = 3.33V

But between pads on the NAND-aid and the pads on the NAND-aid:
GND and D2 = 2.3V
GND and D1 = 2.3V
GND and D0 = 2.1V
GND and D3 = 2.3V
GND and CMD = 2.3V
GND and 3V3 = 2.3V

I don't think this is normal behavior?
So further investigating...
the 3V3 to the R10 component measurement is giving 0.0Ω, that's good.

Now the GND from the mainboard to the NAND-aid is giving me 162.5KΩ, not good.
And the multi-meter is giving that as good continuity.

So I guess I have to make a better GND connection.
I had some problems before by soldering that GND to the GND of the capacitor because it's floating a little bit. Maybe getting a GND somewhere else.

Human error, I had to check it right away...